MSM 1- Main Street Magazine "Blogging It!"

Featuring Chocolatier Zach Townsend of: “Pure Chocolate Desserts”

Tilly Rivers

Women crave it, men hoard it, and Aztec kings were said to have been the first to eat it- but whether we prefer a gooey chocolate truffle or a mug of hot cocoa, chocolate is the number one indulgence for most of us- and certainly a favorite during “love month”- otherwise known as February, and Valentine’s Day!

According to a study done at the University of Michigan in the United States, chocolate contains chemicals called opioids. Opioids are also found in opium, and they serve to dull pain and give a feeling of well-being to people who ingest them. According to the study, people who eat chocolate produce natural opiates in their brains that soothe their nerves and make them feel good. When the receptors that detected opioids were blocked, that chocolate craving was lessened.

So, you have to ask yourself- if you are a 'Chocolatier'- you certainly must have one of the best jobs- ever!

Meet Zach Townsend!

Zach is a chocolatier who has owned Pure Chocolate Desserts by Zach in Dallas, TX for eight years, specializing in entremet-style chocolate desserts for small and large private and public events. He also a food writer for Dessert Professional magazine, and additionally provides French to English translation services specifically targeted to pastry and savory food magazines and books.

Below is the interview MSM had with Zach.

MSM: Please introduce yourself to the readers.

ZT: I am also an assistant to Rose Levy Beranbaum, two-time IACP Cookbook of the Year award-winning author of nine books, including The Cake Bible and most recently Rose’s Heavenly Cakes.

My background is in international business, having graduated from Thunderbird School of Global Management in Arizona. There I learned a great deal about entrepreneurship, which has always been a passion of mine, along with food. I love to make food for people. I get a great deal of enjoyment out of knowing that I’ve created something that people enjoy. I’ve always had a particular passion for desserts and pastry, and more specifically chocolate. I come from a family that has always loved enjoying and preparing food together, so this business is a natural extension of that passion for me.

MSM: Tell us what is meant by the phrase, 'superior chocolate'

ZT:This is actually a very important question with a somewhat elusive answer. However, I am a member of the Fine Chocolate Industry Association whose mission is to support the development and innovation of the fine chocolate industry and best practices. You can read more about the Fine Chocolate Industry Association at www.finechocolateindustry.org. We define “superior” or “fine” chocolate (according to the FCIA site) by “both a selection of high quality ingredients and also by the unique artistry that a chocolatier uses to create chocolates, truffles and other chocolate confections. In general, there are five areas that combine to define a fine chocolate product: cacao origin and processing, chocolate production practices, non-chocolate ingredient quality, the chocolatier’s technical expertise, and artistry and presentation.”

My definition certainly adheres to the definition of that of the FCIA. It starts with the handling of the cacao bean all the way to the manufacturing of the chocolate from that bean by the chocolate maker. A chocolate is superior in the way that one might consider a fine wine superior.

MSM: How long have you been working with chocolate?

ZT: I have been working with chocolate in some capacity for almost twenty years.

MSM: How did you become friends with Michel Jambon, and how did he influence you?

ZT: I became friends in college (Murray State University in Murray, Kentucky) with Michel’s son, Marc Jambon. During visits to Paris, Marc invited me to his parent’s home on several occasions where I got to know his family well, including Michel. One day I had a conversation with Michel about his chocolate company Jeff de Bruges, and he told me about how the company was founded, how it got its name, and its objectives in the European chocolate market. He also talked to me in depth about French and Belgian chocolates. It was the exposure to the chocolates at Jeff de Bruges (now with several locations throughout Europe) that I started to appreciate fine chocolate and the making of superior chocolate products and what that entails. My love of finely-produced chocolates started with my relationship with Michel and his family.

MSM: Chocolatiers are distinct from chocolate makers, who create chocolate from cacao beans and other ingredients. In layman's terms, what exactly is a chocolatier?

ZT: A chocolatier is simply someone who works with, studies, and is devoted to working with chocolate to produce a chocolate product enjoyed by the consumer, such as a box of chocolates or truffles, candies, etc. Chocolate makers are those companies that buy and roast cocoa beans and turn them into chocolate that chocolatiers then use.

I’m a bit unusual when it comes to chocolatiers because my product is a specific type of dessert rather than chocolates. I do make “chocolates” but the majority of what I make is baked products, so I also consider myself a baker. Perhaps the best way to describe me is a chocolatier who bakes or maybe a baking chocolatier. I consider myself a chocolatier because I’m devoted to it solely. I study it, I take a great deal of time to choose the correct chocolate when making one of my desserts in order to emphasize its flavor and I’ve become an expert at using it.

MSM: Can you tell us about the European style of entremet? What is the process involved?

ZT: The term entremets has a very interesting and long history dating back to medieval times. Its oldest translation means “between dishes” referring to any type of side dish, but it’s also a general term these days in French that can simply mean a dessert. Its definition has morphed somewhat though it still maintains the basic idea of entertaining with interesting flavor combinations. This term now applies exclusively (at least as far as I know) to the dessert industry. Traditional entremets are a specific type of construction of multi layers and flavors that have a particular appearance, containing layers of mousses, ganaches, ultra-thin cake, crunchy layers, etc. Its construction takes place in metal cake rings to help ensure the layers stay consistent in thickness and to produce a nice, clean appearance.

When I design my desserts, I take this entremets style approach and I have always loved these types of cakes because of the many layers that are involved. I’m an American but I don’t personally prefer American-style layer cakes where the cake layers are quite thick, sandwiched between traditional fillings such as buttercreams and other types of icings. I prefer ultra-thin layers of cake that blend within the other layers of the dessert but still provide some texture. I don’t adhere 100% to the traditional entremets style and some of my items do have flavors and an appearance that are a bit “Americanized” (my Gianduja Hazelnut Praline Layer Cake is my only traditional American style layer cake that I offer – and it’s popular!), but my style is best representative of this entremets approach. I also prefer minimalist decoration and straight or simple lines in both the cake and its décor.

MSM:What is the difference between white and dark chocolate?

ZT: The confection that is considered “white” chocolate is composed of sugar, cacao butter and milk solids (or milk crumb) and usually vanilla. It contains no cacao solids and therefore has not been technically treated or defined as true chocolate. Cacao solids and cacao butter are what make up what is defined as “cocoa liquor” (not a true liquor), or “cocoa mass” that is obtained from crushing cacao beans.

For a chocolate to be considered officially a “dark” chocolate it must contain, according to the FDA, at least 35% cocoa liquor (but most contain 50% up to 100% cocoa liquor). The rest is sugar, vanilla and usually an emulsifier such as lecithin. The percentage cacao is what is represented when you buy a dark chocolate bar that says, for example, 65% cacao on the package. Also, a dark chocolate can be referred to as either semisweet or bittersweet, but the percentage cacao a chocolate must contain to meet one of these definitions is not officially defined. Some chocolate makers make chocolates with 62% cacao and call that semi-sweet where other chocolate manufacturers call that bittersweet. These terms are subjective. In general, for my purposes, I consider any dark chocolate with a cacao percentage of up to 59% to be semisweet. 60% and over for me I consider bittersweet. The amount of bitterness detected in a chocolate, however, is determined by many factors in the making of that chocolate, including cacao bean types, how the beans are processed, etc. I’ve tasted a 100% cacao dark chocolate by Richart (meaning it contained no sugar at all) that had very little bitterness. Generally speaking, the higher the percentage cacao of the chocolate, the more prominent the bitterness will be.

MSM: Professional chocolatiers study topics including:the history of chocolate,modern techniques of cultivation and processing,the chemistry of chocolate's flavors and textures,chocolate tempering, dipping, decorating, and molding,confectionery formulae based on ganache, sugar syrup, and/or fondant- whew- sounds exhausting ~smiles~ what did you 'love' to do the most? Is this true today?

ZT: What I love to do the most is design a dessert and decide on its flavor and textural layers and then decide if I want it to be white chocolate, milk chocolate or dark chocolate based, depending on other flavors I’m using in it, then design its appearance. It sometimes takes me quite awhile to decide if a dessert is best suited as a square, rectangle, circle or other shape. I do believe there are shapes for particular flavors that are more appealing than others for that flavor. I don’t know why, this is just how my mind works when designing a dessert. I assume other pastry chefs think this is true as well. Its shape is part of its personality. Other than that, I love all aspects of chocolate, including its history, understanding its chemical make up, etc. I don’t believe you can call yourself a serious chocolatier unless you understand all aspects of chocolate.

MSM: What's the flavor profile of the chocolate you use as a base?

ZT: I use many different types of chocolates, but mostly I use Valrhona due to its consistently superior flavor profile and workability and its quality and the many options that the chocolate makers produces. I love choosing from all their chocolate options simply to make it more interesting for my customers and to educate them about their flavor preferences.

Unlike some chocolatiers, I use white chocolate and milk chocolate and respect their place in the dessert and chocolate world as much as I respect and appreciate dark chocolate. Some chocolatiers refuse to work with white or milk chocolate because these chocolates have a reputation of being “inferior” to dark chocolate, though that’s no longer true because the more reputable chocolate makers these days make some excellent white and milk chocolates with very nice flavor profiles. I believe they have their place, and there are many customers I have who prefer these over dark chocolate. It’s more common to use white and milk chocolates in dessert making than one sees in chocolates and truffles, in general.

MSM: How do you come up with flavor combinations for your sweets? Where does your inspiration come from?

ZT: My inspiration comes from many places. I go to Paris often and taste many things and become inspired. I’ve many times spent two straight weeks walking the streets of Paris eating chocolates and pastries all day (not an easy feat!). Sometimes I try to reproduce exactly what I’ve tasted and its appearance because I want to bring that experience back to my customers (though everything I make has my own little twist on it). Sometimes I drink something and the flavors of that drink inspires a new dessert. Other times it just comes to me by asking “what if….” I don’t usually follow flavor fads (such as bacon and chocolate that has appeared a lot lately). I prefer classic flavor combinations, but I may experiment with an extreme version of the flavors or a different combination of them or introducing some interesting textural elements.

MSM: What's your favorite kind of chocolate to eat?

ZT: Dark chocolate is my favorite, something along the lines of 72% to 74% cacao, but Valrhona Manjari at 64% is one of my favorite due to its flavor profile. I also love the milk chocolate Jivara Lactée by Valrhona because it has so many delicious flavors running through it. El Rey makes a very nice milk chocolate as well. Chocolate makers have lately been making their milk chocolates a bit “darker” by adding more cacao liquor thus making it less sweet and with more flavor.

I’ve tasted some beautiful chocolates by Scharffen Berger, Richart, etc. I’ve tasted so many over the years that it’s hard to remember all the wonderful ones I’ve had. I really am excited that there are many small American chocolate makers that are making big names for themselves in their dedication to producing fine chocolates, such as Askinosie, Patric, and Original Hawaiian.

MSM: Favourite food/drink to pair with chocolate?

ZT: Some may call it boring, but the pairings I like are not anything outrageous or exotic. Nothing beats a handful of almonds with a great dark chocolate. Nuts and chocolate together are just so awesome. Their flavors and textures are made for each other. I also like butter and chocolate! I make a wonderful milk chocolate butter with lemon verbena. Milk chocolate and lemon I love together as well as coffee and chocolate. I also love chestnut and chocolate. Some teas with chocolate I love as well. My cake called “Manjari” (named for the chocolate I use) uses a black current tea sabayon as its base.

As for drinks, a great sweet dessert wine or port can’t be beat. Also, try good quality single malt whiskeys with chocolate – excellent!

MSM: Are there any chocolate myths out there that you would like to correct or validate?

ZT: Dark chocolate is superior to white chocolate or milk chocolate. This is not true. The quality of the chocolate is dependent upon many factors from bean to bar. Just because a chocolate is dark doesn’t mean it’s a better quality chocolate than a well produced white or milk chocolate or that it necessarily will taste better to you. Don’t be afraid to admit to enjoying a good quality white or milk chocolate! Find a reputable chocolate maker that makes a good range of chocolate and then try several until you find one that suits your taste preferences.

MSM: Any predictions for future trends?

ZT: I believe we’ll continue to see trends toward mixing unexpected savory ingredients with chocolate, such as olives, different spices, etc.

MSM: What is your most popular seller?

ZT: My Strawberry Bed cake in the spring (a white chocolate mousse and strawberry cream-based cake with almond sponge, Grand Marnier liqueur and strawberries) and my Intense line of cakes, which are my darkest and most decadent.

MSM: What part of being a chocolatier do you love the most?

ZT: Making something that my customers enjoy and that becomes part of the enjoyment of their special moments, like birthdays, weddings, and anniversaries.

MSM: Last thoughts

ZT: If you are a chocolate lover, go out there and try everything you can to educate your palate. Be dedicated to fine chocolates and fine chocolate makers and support them as much as you can.

PLEASE NOTE

Chocolatier Zach Townsend